Gem of a Sandwich Shop Draws Huge Crowd to Opening in Chelsea/Nomad District

Just last week, The New York Times compiled a seemingly comprehensive list of must-try sandwiches throughout the five boroughs. Yet a glaring omission loomed: none of the offerings from All’Antico Vinaio, whose sensational sandwiches rival any and all of the items on their roster, was conspicuously absent. An authentic, family-owned import from Italy, the first shop opened in Florence in 1991 by the Mazzanti family. It immediately became an institution, recognized by Saveur magazine as “the home of the world’s best sandwiches.” And lucky for Chelsea, a new outpost has just availed itself to us, although technically in the Nomad neighborhood it is just a street-crossing from Chelsea

There are now about twenty-five All’Antica Vinaio locations in operation throughout Italy, which inspired expansion to the U.S. in 2018. Executive chef Tommaso Mazzanti is the heir to the family jewel, having partnered with celebrity restaurateur, renowned author and Master Chef judge Joe Bastianich, plus Roberta Nibbi, who acts as New York Director of Operations.

So what makes this place so special? First of all, they use a proprietary Tuscan schiacciata bread, freshly baked in the ovens at their 60th Street and Nomad (ahem.... Chelsea) locations. This wonderfully fragrant loaf is pliant and crusty, with just enough heft to support its fillings without overpowering them. Balance is everything in sandwiches, and the wide variety of fillings are expertly portioned out with precise attention to the ratio with the bread. Mazzanti was in charge of the recipes and the names of the sandwiches as well, his favorite being the Schiacciata del Boss (eponymously, obviously): a simple but masterful combinaiton of prosciutto toscano, pecorino and truffle cream. He also coined what has become the shop’s catch phrase, hashtag and tagline, “Bada come la fuma,” which loosely translates as the sense of awe Mazzanti feels when the smoking hot the bread comes out of the oven, and subsequently, the sandwiches themselves.

As for Nibbi, her favorite is the Toscana, which makes sense it being her hometown of Florence. A little spice from the Salame Toscana, umami from pecorino and the sweetness of truffle honey makes it a trifecta of gustatorial pleasure. reiterated by Nibbi, Italians do not pile on meat after meat as do Americanized versions of “Italian” subs, with their mortadella, prosciutto and salami. “We want you to taste the quality of the meat,” she adds, in addition to its individual nuances, which would get lost in such excess. “Italians would never do this,” which perhaps recalls a scene in the famous movie, Big Night.

La District is another top seller, which in Italy is called “The Bastianich,” and is his favorite. While Joe is fairly well known in American, he is triple-elite A+ list celebrity in Italy. And that sandwich lives up, layering pancetta with sun dried tomato and arugula, held together with a generous lashing of pecorino cream. Three of the eight front of house employees were at the counter upon my first visit, who all concurred working there was “really fun.” Klein, a native New Yorker, sided with Nibbi on La Toscana. Emely, from Mexico, likes The Summer (Prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato and basil), and Juan Bernachia, a native Argentinian who is now also a fellow Chelsea resident, went exotic with La Paradiso (mortadella, stracciatella and pistachio cream).

All the sandwiches are freshly made from a glass-enclosed buffet of ingredients, so you can see your meal composed before your eyes. And while their menu is expertedly considered, and fairly expansive, they are not obdurate against substitutions. “if you think you know better...” says Nibbi cheekily. Or if you have certain evitable dietary restrictions. They do offer gluten-free bread, although it is shipped from a baker in L.A. Three vegetarian options are available: The Caprese, La Broadway and L.A. Fadeaway, and keep your eye out for the specials written up on the countertop chalkboard.

A unique attribute of the U.S. locations are their newly launched breakfast sandwiches. Unexpectedly, they stayed old-school American classic with their BEC, American cheese and all. Other egg sandwiches tend to be more Italianized, a meatier option with porchetta, nduja and spicy eggplant, or a hybrid with stracchino cheese and avocado. They also have a flaky, burnished cornetto (Italian croissant), which is a more typical Italian breakfast, as well as a filled with version with a choice of pistachio, cream, Nutella or apricot jam. Do not miss their cappuccino, which may be the best in the city. And as the day progresses, they also have their liquor license (as does the 60th Street location), offering a trio of apertivi, perhaps to sip with a nibble of fragrant olive oil cake.

There are two more locations in the works: Brookfield Place will be opening soon, as well as a midtown address. So even if your lunch hour is spent away from your home address, hopefully there is an All’Antico Vinaio to sate your stomach’s rumblings.

Buon appetito.